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Dan is the first up & out, taking more stuff to Steve’s place before we check out a little after 9:00 and catch cabs to the bus station. Our cabbie spoke some English & tried to get us to sell him some U.S. currency. We didn’t.
The Changsha bus station is not a fun place. It was packed and hot, and we were the only Laowai – the target of stares as well as an army of beggars who get in your face with a hand under your nose & stand there for 5 minutes before going away. It was a joy to get on the bus.
The first part of the trip was pretty good – on a good highway, with a novel on the battle of Thermopylae to keep busy. Over time, the highway gave over to a 2-lane road that while paved had seen much better days. I gave up reading. A little kid (maybe 10 months) was screaming as his mom alternately cuddled & swatted him to get him to shut up. Chinese infants & toddles don’t wear diapers but have crotchless pants. When they have to “go,” their moms just hold them over the aisle of the bus, so there was a stream of urine at my feet.
I was ready to get off the bus when we pulled into Ningyuan around 5:00. For all Ningyuan pics, click here: http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=172067316/a=102868539_102868539/t_=102868539.
The Changsha bus station is not a fun place. It was packed and hot, and we were the only Laowai – the target of stares as well as an army of beggars who get in your face with a hand under your nose & stand there for 5 minutes before going away. It was a joy to get on the bus.
The first part of the trip was pretty good – on a good highway, with a novel on the battle of Thermopylae to keep busy. Over time, the highway gave over to a 2-lane road that while paved had seen much better days. I gave up reading. A little kid (maybe 10 months) was screaming as his mom alternately cuddled & swatted him to get him to shut up. Chinese infants & toddles don’t wear diapers but have crotchless pants. When they have to “go,” their moms just hold them over the aisle of the bus, so there was a stream of urine at my feet.
I was ready to get off the bus when we pulled into Ningyuan around 5:00. For all Ningyuan pics, click here: http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=172067316/a=102868539_102868539/t_=102868539.
We had a good hike to the bus station – there are no cabs in Ningyuan, just 3-wheel motorized carts – and Judy’s suitcase wheel broke so I had to haul that on my back up to the school. We were met by Jian, Ningyuan #1 Middle School’s foreign liaison, who offered us water & wants to take us out with the important people of the school tomorrow. Today, though, we went to English Corner. Kids at the school go to class from 7AM to 9PM every day except Sunday (when they still have classes, but not as long). They have a break roughly from 5:00 - 7:00, and that's when English Corner takes place. Dan & the other American teachers meet those who are interested at a gazebo near the dorms. It's a chance for the kids to practice their English in a casual setting.
When we showed up, we were mobbed by scores of kids, many of whom wanted to practice their English on us, and more who just wanted to gawk. Most memorable were Nancy, Dido, Jordan, Clever, Magnolia, and O’Keefe. O’Keefe was particularly earnest and wanted to know how to get into a U.S. university. I wish I had an answer. Clever wanted to know what I thought of Heaven, and I wasn’t sure what to make of that or what I could say without getting him (or me) into trouble. Nancy is a chatterbox with a constant smile and a pose, and literally hopping instead of walking. She’s graduating and can’t be more than 4’8” and 80 lbs wet. She is clearly a favorite along with Gandalf, who is no longer at Ningyuan #1 Middle School after running off to Shenzhen to try to work in a factor. He returned but the school has not taken him back, so he’s taking classes elsewhere. He’s been texting Dan since we got to China, so we hope he’ll catch a bus to see us.
We also met Irvin, Dan's only remaining WorldTeach colleague in Ningyuan, and he’s leaving tomorrow. He’s a Northwestern grad, an accomplished classical musician on violin, piano, and organ, and is fluent in Mandarin. He’s going to study in Beijing next year.
We’re staying in the apartments Dan and Jackie lived in. Definitely the worst digs we’ve had. There’s nominal A/C in the bedrooms, but the places our filthy. The bathroom has a shower nozzle coming out of the wall, but no shower stall. You just spray yourself down and the soap & water drains below the toilet. I guess it makes for easy bathroom cleanup.
We went to a restaurant where Dan was a “regular” last year & had another great meal. Then down the street to a department store to get some towels (none in the apartments) & extra batteries. The street along Ningyuan’s river comes alive at night – street vendors, night snacks, Karaoke. The place is packed with people, many yelling “hallo” at us or just staring. Some kids (and their parents) wanted pictures taken with us. We didn’t mind – actually, it was a hoot – but I can see how it could get really old over time.
Dan bought “Pirates of the Caribbean” II and III for 5 yuan each at the local video store. He'd had a pile of videos but Irvin left the apartment door open one night and his stash got looted. The boys stayed up to watch, but it was hot & only the bedrooms had A/C so Judy and I retired there.
We also met Irvin, Dan's only remaining WorldTeach colleague in Ningyuan, and he’s leaving tomorrow. He’s a Northwestern grad, an accomplished classical musician on violin, piano, and organ, and is fluent in Mandarin. He’s going to study in Beijing next year.
We’re staying in the apartments Dan and Jackie lived in. Definitely the worst digs we’ve had. There’s nominal A/C in the bedrooms, but the places our filthy. The bathroom has a shower nozzle coming out of the wall, but no shower stall. You just spray yourself down and the soap & water drains below the toilet. I guess it makes for easy bathroom cleanup.
We went to a restaurant where Dan was a “regular” last year & had another great meal. Then down the street to a department store to get some towels (none in the apartments) & extra batteries. The street along Ningyuan’s river comes alive at night – street vendors, night snacks, Karaoke. The place is packed with people, many yelling “hallo” at us or just staring. Some kids (and their parents) wanted pictures taken with us. We didn’t mind – actually, it was a hoot – but I can see how it could get really old over time.
Dan bought “Pirates of the Caribbean” II and III for 5 yuan each at the local video store. He'd had a pile of videos but Irvin left the apartment door open one night and his stash got looted. The boys stayed up to watch, but it was hot & only the bedrooms had A/C so Judy and I retired there.
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